Monday, June 28, 2010

Delta Cruisers and Carradice

I got a text message from my wife this afternoon.  "You have packages!" For some odd reason, UPS claimed there was  "natural disaster" somewhere around Spokane, WA that delayed the arrival a couple days.  But I knew exactly what she was talking about.  The Delta Cruisers had arrived.

I hopped on the Twenty that I rode in to work on this morning and "raced," or at least went as fast as a Twenty can carry you, home.

The rest of the next couple hours was spent pulling the original rubber off the Tourist and putting on these gorgeous cream-colored beauties.

The front was no problem at all.  Once the brake pads were removed and the axle lined up with the keyhole slot in the fork, the wheel dropped right out.  The original tire was a bit difficult to get off.  The tube was the original one too and had two very old patches on it.  I was a little nervous the Delta Cruisers wouldn't fit as they seemed a bit large.  In fact, the first time I put air in it up to 35psi, I noticed some of the bead sticking out.  I let a little air out and pushed it in, re-pumped to 40psi (these are rated max 45psi) and it held fine.

The rear... well, let's just say it wasn't so easy.  Here were the steps:

  • Undo shift cable
  • Remove brake shoes
  • Undo brake guides and slide them back so wheel clears them
  • Remove axle nuts (indicator nut on the right, standard nut on the left) and  washers.  Don't mix them up!
  • Remove wheel alignment nuts on the back of drop outs
  • Slide wheel forward and remove chain from cog
  • Slide wheel back out of drops
  • Watch for the unique wheel alignment/chain tensioner
I HOPE that I never get a flat on this thing while I'm on a long ride.  It would be very unpleasant to have to undo all this in the wild.

I also took the opportunity, while I had her all ripped apart to adjust the chain (it was a bit loose previously) and then re-set the rear brakes.  This was the most time consuming part.  Adjusting rod brakes appears to be an art that will take me some time to master.

Anyway, I got it all done! and look at this lovely girl!!

Another surprise was my Carradice Barley saddle bag that arrived from England.  I got a great deal on this bag, even shipped from across the pond.  What quality!  Now I know why everyone talks about this bag. 

One thing I've learned from mounting other saddle bags with leather loops to Brooks saddles is that the metal very quickly chews up the leather on the loop strap.  While I'm sure you could get replacements, I "line" the loop on the saddle with a short 1.5 inch section of old road inner tube.  I save all my old inner tubes.  They come in handy for so many things.  From buffers to keep a chain from hitting the chain stay to makeshift bungee cords to tie something to a rack, they are very handy to have.

Here you can see the short section of tube with the leather strap running through it.  The easiest way to do this is to push the tube through first and position it, then slide the strap up through the inner part of the tube.  It can be a bit tricky, but it really saves straps from the wear of metal on leather.

I'm riding her in tomorrow, no doubt about it.  I'll post my impressions of the ride.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone


  1. I try to repair my flats on most of my bikes by locating where it occurred and removing the tire in that area without completely removing the wheel from the bicycle, handy skill to learn, especially if you ride IGH bikes.


  2. I would love to learn more about how to do this!! Do you have a step by step post on your blog? Links please? Sounds like a nice "how-to" for us newbs.

  3. You're just lucky you don't have the full chaincase to contend with. The first time i ook the back wheel off of mine I had to take off the front chainwheel to give me enough chain slack get it off the cog.

    Looks good

  4. Thanks for the comments Mr. C! Sounds like a real issue to get that chain case off. And to think I actually was hoping to get one some day. Thanks for the insights.



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